Bisque

Bisque in the eye: is there a more middle class injury?

Restaurants I have known (2012)

All establishments in Brighton unless otherwise specified

3 star
None

2 star
Graze (Jan) - ham hock and wood pigeon terrine; halibut fillet with a beef shin ravioli and girolles; nutmeg crème brûlée with toffee shards and almond ice cream/crumble. £50 per head with wine.

Due South (Feb) - smoked mackerel fillet with lemon powder on rocket and capers; battered lemon sole and triple-cooked chips with mini-onion, gherkin and rocket salad; panna cotta with lemon jelly and a lemon sorbet. £25 per head with Argus voucher.

Fishy Fishy (Feb, lunch) - bowl of garlic butter prawns (the waiter said they're one of the few things they have to source from farther afield, but they were by far the freshest I've had in Brighton); fish and chips: one fillet of huss and the other wrasse. £14 per head with soft drinks.

Gars (March) - just a cheeky 2-course with the last Argus vouchers, but all very nice. Prawn toast then Szechuan pork with rice. £20/head with bottled lager.

1 star
Medicine Chest (May) I had pork paté (which was more of a sausage slice) with relish and toast for starter, and confit duck for main. Nothing wrong with either, but certianly not the standard you'd expect. Was a particularly pricey visit too with the cocktails pushing it to £60 per head.
 
Graze (Valentine's Special) We arrive promptly but our reservation couldn't be found [I checked later and the confirmation from online booking was OK]. We were accommodated regardless: phew! After being seated we realised the usual Graze fair wasn't on offer and our choice was from a fairly limited £50 set menu. The game consommé pre-starter was tasty and the scallops with raw apple and pork belly was stunning. The main -- fillet steak with kale, pomme purée and girolles -- was nicely cooked but there was an overwhelming saltiness about some element on the plate. We expressed our concerns and were reassured with "Kale can be a little bland" and "Maybe it was a crystal?" -- if it's bland then what is it doing on my plate, and … "a crystal"?! Overall, a good night. But being 40% pricier than usual and the odd reaction to a displeased diner has knocked this visit down a star.

To visit
Unithai
Twenty Four

Restaurants I have known (2011)

Located in Brighton unless otherwise stated.



3 star
Dinner (Knightsbridge)

2 star
The Medicine Chest
Sam's of Seven Dials
Jamie's (Brighton)
The House

Tipazia

1 star
China Garden
Lion and Lobster

Cheeses I have known (2011)

4 star

Gruyère
Good enough to savour on its own: just slice a piece off and nibble on it.

3 star


Woolsery Goat
Balanced, not too goaty.

P'tit Basque
Nutty, delicious, looks like a pork pie.

Swiss Alp Panorama
Not unlike Gruyère but with a curious herb crust that smells most peculiar but works very well.

Manchego
Rubbery and pourous; a slightly guilty secret.

Brebirousse d'Argental
Creamy with a distinctive orange washed rind.

Cornish Yarg wrapped in wild garlic
I'm a huge fan of wild garlic. And what better than good cheese wrapped in wild garlic?

Vignotte
Pure white with a very slight crumble. An excellent day cheese.


Langres
A distinctive washed-rind cheese; smooth, with a blue note.

Leerdammer Caractère

Very smooth. I'd imagine a good melter.

Raging Bull 

A unusual herb taste that takes a bit of getting used to. But I think it's worth it.

Teleggio
Ossau-Iraty
Saint Albray

2 star

Waitrose brand Tomme do Chevre
Nice price, perhaps a little bitter; may be improved with a pickle.

Cashel Blue
Probably as blue as I'll go. Good for Christmas.

1 star

Raclette
Salty but cheap.